Plas Newydd
The Ladies of Llangollen and their very special house
Plas Newydd is one of the most interesting historic houses I have visited recently, not just because of the the story of its most famous inhabitants, the Ladies of Llangollen, but because it is a truly unique house, which appeals to everything I love about historic homes.
The Ladies of Llangollen were Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby, who came to Wales from Kilkenny, Ireland in 1778, settling in Llangollen in 1780. They were something of an anomaly for the 18th century: two single women refusing marriage and moving to Wales to live together. They set up home with their housekeeper, Mary Carryl, who came with them from Ireland and worked for them until her death in 1809.
There has been much speculation about Eleanor and Sarah’s relationship. Whether or not they were the “first lesbian power couple” as some have claimed, they lived an unconventional life for the time and were a source of fascination for their contemporaries. They were visited by the great and good of British society, including the Duke of Wellington, and William Wordsworth who was inspired to write To the Lady E B And The Hon Miss P about their relationship and way of life.
Glyn Cafaillgaroch, in the Cambrian tongue,
In ourse the Vale of Friendship, let this spot
Be nam'd, where faithful to a low roof'd Cot
On Deva's banks, ye have abode so long,
Sisters in love, a love allowed to climb
Ev'n on this earth, above the reach of time.
In one year, the Ladies had more than 800 visitors. I think I would have started screening visitors at this point, but they did at least keep their home for themselves. Visitors were very rarely allowed to stay at Plas Newydd, and had to find lodgings at the nearby Hand Hotel.
While the story of Plas Newydd’s most famous owners is fascinating, it’s the building itself that is the real curiosity for me. The Ladies of Llangollen were great collectors of wood carvings1 and they used these to decorate their home in a truly original way. Exterior and interior walls are covered with these carvings, collected from stately homes and churches.
What could feel oppressive, actually feels very cosy when you are inside the house. One of my favourite bits was a wood panel on the wall of the landing, which came from a wooden chest related to King Charles II. I love how the panels have been made to fit the space while also making sense of the design (even if the word “France” isn’t quite in one piece).
The Ladies of Llangollen didn’t neglect their faithful housekeeper in their decorative efforts. The housekeeper’s room at the top of the house has a beautiful window made up of a patchwork of stained glass fragments, and a wooden pantry at the top of the stairs is in the gothic style of the rest of the house.
Another beautiful internal feature is the lantern arch above the doorway into the Library.
The exterior of the building is just as beautiful. Even on a dull, drizzly day, Plas Newydd is striking. The clean black and white exterior stands out clearly against the neat ornamental gardens behind which it sits. It’s not a large house but was considerably altered by the Ladies of Llangollen from the 14th century stone cottage that stood on the site originally. Interestingly, perhaps its most familiar feature, the contrasting black and white applique, was added by General John Yorke, a subsequent owner.
Plas Newydd is a one of a kind house that holds special significance, both for its extraordinary decor, and for the legacy of its most famous occupants. I absolutely loved it and would move in if I could!
If you are planning to visit, I would recommend the audio guide. I normally hate these as I like to explore at my own pace, but this one really enhanced my visit and wasn’t too wordy! Also, the car park is small - if you are able to, it’s best to park in Llangollen and walk (even though it’s uphill…).
Llangollen itself is beautiful, with shops and cafes, and a steam railway that runs to Corwen. You can also take a horse drawn canal boat trip to the Horseshoe Falls. If you’re feeling intrepid, Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is nearby - I wasn’t brave enough to walk across!
So interesting! Loved your pics! Thanks for sharing!
Oh, I need to go there. I love the wood carvings. Thanks for sharing